Puppy Crate Training - Step By Step Instruction

Puppy crate training is a fantastic method of managing the safety and well-being of young puppies. When used properly the crate is an invaluable tool for establishing good habits in your puppies and also for preventing problem behaviors before they arise.

In spite of what you may think or have read about puppy crate training the truth is that we crate train our puppies for their benefit - that's why we do it. Secondary to that is the fact that using a crate also benefits us and our furniture, shoes, carpet, cushions etc...

Puppy Crate Training - Why Do We Do It?

Over time the crate will become your puppy's own private area which they will grow to love and feel secure in. You will come to rely on your crate just like I do in many day to day activities including:

• One of the first and most important uses of the crate is in the puppy housebreaking process. Crate training is the best way to quickly teach your puppy to eliminate (go to the toilet) outside. You can read my detailed step by step system here - puppy house training.
• Crating our puppies teaches them to chew on the toys we provide to them and prevents them from chewing on the things we don't want them to chew on (shoes, furniture, curtains etc.). This is the key to establishing good habits in our dogs and preventing destructive habits which can be difficult to rectify.
• When your young puppy is in his/her crate he is safe from any number of dangerous household items. Unfortunately many puppies are severely injured and killed every year as a result of chewing wires, ingesting poisons or eating foreign objects.
• Separation anxiety is a huge problem for an increasingly large percentage of dogs. Proper use of the crate can help reduce the chance of your puppy developing separation anxiety. The crate becomes a place where your dog is calm, out of trouble and accustomed to being alone. I should add here that if you are away from home all day every day is a puppy really suitable for someone with your lifestyle anyway?

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  Never Ever Use Your Crate As A Tool For Punishment!

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• If you have friends or visitors of any kind coming and going from your home the crate is the perfect place to keep your puppy safely confined for a while.
• Because most crates are lightweight and portable you can move them from room to room so your puppy can be close by you all day long!
• Many crates are suitable for putting into your car which makes your puppy's traveling experience safer and often less stressful.
• When your puppy grows to love his crate it makes trips and stays at places such as your Vet and Dog Groomers a more bearable experience.
• When puppy crate training is applied correctly your puppy cannot get into any mischief which significantly reduces any need to discipline her. This makes for a far better environment in which to live (for dog and owner).
• If you plan to do any activities like competitive obedience training, fly-ball or agility training you will find your crate is a great place to confine your dog in between training sessions and competition. Put it in a nice cool spot in the shade. If you plan to give your dog some obedience training I recommend this comprehensive do it yourself dog training course - SitStayFetch Premium.

Selecting A Crate For Your Puppy

The crates basically come in two general styles - durable plastic and an all wire mesh type, which is often collapsible. It's really a personal choice which style of crate you go for but the most important thing is that you buy one that is the appropriate size for your dog. Get a crate that will be large enough for your fully grown puppy and partition it off until he grows into it.

I like the plastic Vari Kennel Crate (the one on the right) style because they are lightweight, tough, can be carted all around the place and they are very easy to clean.

If you plan to purchase your crate online I've always found dog.com to be very good. They have great specials, fast shipping and an enormous range of quality dog crates - click on the crates below to learn more and compare crates.

Apart From The Dog What Else Goes In The Crate?

1. Bedding - choose a nice comfortable dog bed that can't be chewed up and swallowed by your feisty little pup. Be sure to choose bedding suited to your climate.
2. Chew toys - get a couple of good chew toys that you can stuff and even freeze. This keeps your puppy busy and teaches him what is appropriate to chew on. My dogs love Kongs and Buster Cubes.
3. Water - keep a nice supply of clean fresh water. Heavy wide based bowls that won't be tipped over are best or you can buy one that clips securely onto the crate wall.

Introducing Your Puppy To The Crate

Your puppy's first impression and experiences with the crate are all important. We need to set it up so your puppy views the crate as a positive object right from the start. You goal is for your puppy to love the crate and choose to use it himself rather than as a contraption he associates with isolation and loneliness.

Try some of the puppy crate training tips below to make the crate inviting to your puppy - always take it slowly. Put the crate in the room with you and your puppy, leave the crate door open wide.

1. Drop a few tasty treats in and around the crate and let your puppy clean them up. Be sure to give heaps of encouragement and then praise if your puppy bravely steps into the crate.
2. If your puppy has a favorite dog bed or blanket put this inside the crate to encourage him and to make it more homely for him.
3. Feed your puppy all of his meals in the crate (door still open).
4. With your puppy outside the crate place a chew toy inside the crate and close the door. Your puppy will literally beg you to let him at it! Open up the door, let him in and praise his efforts (this method has proved very successful for my dogs).
5. When your puppy is not around tie a chew toy (like a stuffed kong) inside the crate and leave the door open. Let him discover the "treasure" and leave him inside to enjoy the find.
6. When your puppy is comfortable in the crate close the door and feed some treats to him through the mesh. To start with just leave the door closed for 10 seconds then gradually increase the duration. Don't increase the time too quickly, if your dog becomes distressed or whines you are moving too fast.
7. Build up the amount of time he is in the crate slowly, first when you are in the room, then step outside the room for a short time. Your puppy's first really long stretch in the crate is ideally overnight with the crate in your bedroom.

Puppy Crate Training - Shaping The Behavior

I find that the tips outlined above are more than enough to get most puppies comfortable in their crates. If you are having trouble with a difficult or nervous pup try this puppy crate training exercise to shape the desired behavior.

1. Place the crate in an area where you and your puppy spend time together - leave the crate door open. 2. Any time your puppy shows any interest in the crate (like a look) praise him/her and throw him a tasty treat. Repeat this over and over. 3. You'll find that your puppy soon becomes very interested in his crate. This step asks more of your puppy. Don't praise and treat only a glance at the crate now, wait until your pup walks over towards the crate, then enthusiastically praise and reward with a treat. 4. Repeat Step 3 many times and then make it harder again for your puppy to earn a treat. Hold off with your praise and treats until your puppy actually steps in the crate now. Repetition and reinforcing the desired behavior is the key. 5. Now your pup should be popping in and out of the crate to work for his treats. Now you hold off with your praise and treats until your puppy goes into the crate and sits down. 6. The final step is to have your puppy step inside the crate, sit down and then you will close the crate door (only for a few seconds to start with) and feed some treats through the door. 7. Attach a cue word to this process such as "bedtime" or "go to crate". Say your cue word every time your puppy steps inside the crate - he will soon associate the word with the act of getting in to the crate.

General Rules Of Puppy Crate Training

• Always take your dogs collar off when he is put in the crate. Otherwise the collar can get caught on the crate which can have disastrous consequences.
• Ensure that you aren't asking your puppy (or older dog for that matter) to hold off from going to the toilet for longer than she is physically capable.
• If your puppy does have a toilet accident inside his crate obviously punishment is not an option, but you should be angry at yourself. Immediately clean up the mess including the use of an odor neutralizer.
• Be careful when crating your puppy in hot weather. Be especially careful when you have your puppy crated in your car, temperatures can become extreme inside cars and in a very short period of time.
• Except for overnight and one off occasions you should never crate your dog for more than 4 or 5 hours at a time. Why have a dog if you have to confine him for such long periods? Perhaps a goldfish would be a more suitable pet?
• Dogs love their exercise, particularly nice long walks with you. So if you are going to crate your puppy or older dog they will require plenty of exercise and mental stimulation throughout the day. This can also include some obedience training sessions.
• Never release your puppy from his crate (unless the situation is getting dangerous) if he is causing a fuss by whining, barking or being destructive. If you give in to these demands you are actually rewarding and therefore reinforcing this undesirable behavior.
• Don't fall into the trap of only crating your puppy when you are about to leave the house - the crate will begin to be associated with you leaving if this is the case.

Good luck with your puppy crate training - as long as you follow the above plan with consistency and patience I'm sure you'll achieve great results.

Try this simple but effective way to introduce your puppy
to his/her crate - by a brilliant dog trainer, Dr. Ian Dunbar.

Dogs Time

Clicker Dog Training

What's With All This Fuss About Clicker Dog Training?

Quite simply clicker dog training is the most humane and effective way we know how to shape any new behavior in our dogs and extinguish any existing behavior problems.

Clicker dog training utilizes proven behavioral science methodology to clearly communicate and interact with our dogs. We now have a greater understanding of how animals (including our dogs!) think and learn - clicker training is the practical application of this knowledge in real life everyday situations.

Clicker dog training is a positive, reward based training method which relies on co-operation, consistency, repetition and positive reinforcement. Clicker training is free from any violence or harsh corrections. The best thing about clicker training are the results you and your dog will achieve - plus you'll have a heap of fun in the process.

A Really Quick Overview Of Clicker Training For Dogs

Learn How To Become A Super Clicker Trainer!

The clicker training methods we now use on our dogs were first employed in the 60's to train marine mammal's (dolphins). These methods were then brought across into the dog training arena thanks to Karen Pryor, and really started to take off in the early 90's. The clicker training movement in the dog world has been picking up steam ever since and is now an unstoppable force - and for good reason...

What Is The Clicker?

The clicker is a plastic toy like device with a metal strip that makes a quick, clear, consistent and distinctive sound when pressed. For our purpose it serves to accurately "mark" the behavior that we are shaping in our dogs and provides them with precise feedback - it does not have magical powers.

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Choke Chains, Prong Collars and Harsh Corrections are not the tools of a clicker trainer.

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Yeah, but what exactly is Clicker Dog Training?

Tell me Chris, "How does this clicker training work and can you honestly tell me that a little plastic clicker will train my dog?"

Well no, the clicker doesn't actually train your dog - but it is an important tool in the clicker training process. Clicker training relies on our understanding of how dogs learn, dog psychology and the behavioral science principles of Operant Conditioning and Classical Conditioning. We know that when we combine these principles it is our best means of communicating with our dogs.

At the core of the clicker dog training principle is this proven belief - Reinforced or rewarded behavior in a dog is more likely to be repeated, and behaviors that are not reinforced will become less likely to occur again.

These are the brilliant communication tools of a Clicker Trainer:

Operant Conditioning:

Basically this takes advantage of the fact that dogs learn by the immediate consequence of their actions. What this means is that if we provide and control these consequences we will in fact be controlling our dog's behavior. I hear you ask "how do we control the consequences of our dog's behavior?" We do it by giving them instant feedback. This feedback or consequence can take the form of the following five outcomes:

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1. Positive Reinforcement - we add something to strengthen or increase the occurrence of a behavior.

2. Negative Reinforcement - we take something away to strengthen or increase the occurrence of a behavior.

3. Positive Punishment - we add something to weaken or decrease the occurrence of a behavior.

4. Negative Punishment - we take something away to weaken or decrease the occurrence of a behavior.

5. Extinction - we no longer reinforce a behavior so it goes away.

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What does all of this mean? Depending on which of these 5 consequences we provide, we are making the behavior occur more often or making it fade away.

A couple of quick real life examples of a dog learning through the consequences of their behavior (Operant Conditioning).

1. If you throw a tasty liver treat to your dog every time he sits down I'm tipping you will have a dog who spends a lot of time on his butt! By rewarding or reinforcing the sitting behavior you are ensuring that it will become more common.
2. The same principle applies in this scenario. If you have a dog who likes to jump up on you and you respond by giving him a cuddle or a nice scratch behind the ear each time he does it, you are rewarding and therefore strengthening this behavior. Why wouldn't your dog jump up on you again? He'd be mad not to.

Classical Conditioning:

When we combine the effectiveness of Operant Conditioning with the power of Classical Conditioning clicker dog training is the brilliant result.

Classical Conditioning is the pairing of two unrelated stimuli so that an association is formed between the two.

Think of it from your dog's perspective. When you put your jacket on your dog gets all excited because she associates this with going for walkies! In your dog's mind two unrelated things have become linked. In clicker dog training the sound of the clicker becomes associated with receiving a reward. When your dog hears the click she will expect a treat to come her way fast! - it is amazing how quickly dogs build this association between the "click" and a yummy treat.

NOTE: Don't worry if all this scientific theory sounds a bit confusing. The power and effectiveness of clicker training will become crystal clear as soon as you give it a go.

For a detailed explanation of Operant and Classical conditioning please visit this page Clicker Training Theory.

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What all of this theory means is that a clicker trainers overwhelming focus is on marking and rewarding the desirable behavior of their dogs, rather than on the dogs undesirable behavior. Training sessions are motivational, full of praise and rewards and they are also free from any threat of violence or harsh punishment (unlike many other training methods). This clear emphasis on positive reinforcement gives dogs the freedom and confidence to think, learn and experiment throughout the training process. The dogs natural capabilities are encouraged and rewarded rather than being suppressed through the threat of violence or harsh corrections. From your dogs perspective they can solely concentrate on the challenge of learning and trying new things rather than worrying about the consequences of doing something wrong. Which scenario do you think is a better environment for a dog to learn and bond with their trainer?

The clicker itself is basically a construction tool used to build, shape and reinforce desired behavior. It's function is to clearly pinpoint the behavior we are looking for in our dogs (sit, down etc.) precisely when it takes place. It marks this event or behavior and provides instant positive feedback (which is what dogs need to learn!) to your dog. Clicker trained dogs quickly learn that the clicking sound is a good thing, that a reward is on its way and they strive to hear its sweet sound. Some trainers call the clicker a "bridging stimulus" meaning that the click links up or connects the desired behavior to the reward (treat, praise etc.). The click also signifies to your dog that the behavior is finished, that their job is over.

Once you have the desired behavior (sit, down etc.) rock solid and reliable in all circumstances and situations you can gradually phase out the clicker and the reward for that behavior. Then you and your dog can move on to learning your next trick!

Clicker Training - Step-by-Step

Lets have a look at a clicker trainers step by step approach to shaping a new behavior: Always remember that dogs know how to do these tasks already we just need to clearly communicate to them what we want them to do - and make it worth their while to do so.

1. Get the desired behavior to happen - use a lure, target stick, shape it or let occur naturally.

2. Mark the behavior the instant it happens - "click"

3. Reward/Reinforce the behavior - use tasty treats, praise, life rewards etc.

4. Generalize the behavior - add the so called three D's. Practice the behavior everywhere adding new challenges like increased duration, distance and distractions.

5. Cue the behavior - add a verbal and/or visual signal such as "sit" or "down" etc.

6. Gradually fade the clicker and treats.

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Quick Video Of A Clicker Trainer Shaping The "Sit" Behavior

Advantages Of Clicker Dog Training

1. Builds a strong bond between handler and dog, based on co-operation and mutual respect.
2. It's a positive, gentle, non violent and motivational training method.
3. Is based on a proven scientific method that works.
4. Is great for young puppies.
5. Focuses on what is right rather than what is wrong, which builds confident dogs.
6. Raises a thinking dog and one who is creative.
7. It's a very forgiving method - just get out and try it!
8. Dogs have a great attitude towards training and are stress free.
9. Clicker dog training is fantastic for big heavy dogs. This is because you work in cooperation with your dog rather than by pushing, shoving or manhandling your dog. Hey, they use clickers to train Rhino's, so don't be fooled into thinking that it is not an effective technique for big dogs.

My Experience With Clicker Dog Training

I only started using clicker training with my dogs about two years ago. For a long time before that I resisted the change, even though plenty of people who I respected kept telling me to give clicker training a go. I was happy with the methods I knew well and had always used. The first time I used clicker dog training was because my mum asked me to train her new little Shih Tzu puppy called Macy. She wanted her trained using clicker training methods, so I thought it would be a good opportunity to experience first hand what all the fuss was about this clicker training.

It didn't take me long to realise that clicker training had a lot going for it. I soon found that dogs really love the clicker training process and most importantly I could see the results were quick and very impressive. It's been a refreshing and unexpected change to see the sheer delight and enthusiasm all dogs have show towards our clicker training sessions. Take Macy for example, she sits in front of me shaking, almost bursting with excitement when I produce the clicker. After she has thought her way through the session she is always exhausted - it takes a lot out of dogs mentally.

This is the clicker training resource I used when I first taught Macy - Clickertraining Academy

"Macy" our Shih Tzu loves the clicker!

Where Do You Learn More About Clicker Dog Training?

Getting Started Clicker Training

My advice would be to just get out and try clicker training for yourself. It's the best way to really appreciate and see for yourself its many benefits and advantages. Then if you feel you would like to continue to further your knowledge and become a better clicker trainer, I'd suggest you read a good clicker training book or maybe watch a DVD or two. My main recommendation would be to just enjoy the process and do it because it works!

For further reading, online videos and clicker training supplies there is only one place to go. Karen Pryor is the leading authority on Clicker Training For Dogs and she has a great website - www.clickertraining.com

Another excellent and highly recommended product to get your clicker training experience off to a great start:

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This Is What You Can Achieve Through Clicker Training

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Some Other Good Clicker Dog Training Articles:

The History Of Clicker Training by Karen Pryor

How To Stop Unwanted Barking

Puppy House Training The Clicker Way

Are You A Leader Or Just A Treat Dispenser?

Dogs Time

Dog Whisperer Training Methods

Dog Whisperer: A person who has, or claims to have, a natural ability to relate to or connect with dogs.

Yeah, but there's more....

What Is A Dog Whisperer?
Who Is The Dog Whisperer?
Dog Whispering In Your Dog Training
Can Anyone Be A Dog Whisperer?

What Is A Dog Whisperer?

A dog whisperer is somebody who has developed a high level of awareness and understanding of the mind and natural instincts of the canine species. This allows human and dog to form a deep connection free of the many constraints humans normally put in the way.

Because us humans and our dogs are a different species we often encounter difficulties in communicating effectively with each other. We can't just sit down with them and have a conversation over a nice cup of coffee, like we would with our human friends. But what can we do? I'll get into that a little later, but you could say that being a dog whisperer means that you have broken down these barriers of communication and have developed a very real form of two way communication with dogs. A dog whisperer realigns his/her methods of communication so that it matches up with and is relevant to dogs.

What am I thinking?

Unfortunately the majority of human-dog relationships in this world are one way, lopsided affairs. It's usually us humans endlessly issuing commands or reprimanding our dogs, seemingly oblivious to what our dogs are actually feeling and trying to communicate to us. Look at it this way - think of a very dominant, overbearing person you have come across in your own life (in my case it was a boss I had a few years back). This person probably doesn't care much for how you are feeling and what your thoughts are. They just want to get their message across to you and tell you off when you don't reach their standards. When you do try to do or say something they fail to acknowledge your attempts or simply ignore you. How do you feel? frustrated.., helpless.. and probably much worse. I believe many of our dogs live in this type of restrictive environment every day. Our dogs are constantly reaching out and trying to communicate with their human family, but somehow it seems to go unnoticed or at least misinterpreted.

The thing is our dogs are continually speaking to us in their language. They communicate with us (and each other) through various means using energy, body language, scent, facial expression, the movement of ears and tail, overall posture and voice (barking, growling). As you can see, most of these signals or expressions are non verbal where's humans communicate in a mainly verbal manner. What a dog whisperer does is acknowledge the difference between human and dog. A dog whisperer takes a step back, shuts up, observes and understands these gestures our dogs continue to express to us. When you do this you can't help but form a deep connection with your dog as you will understand his wants and needs and therefore can respond in a manner which is appropriate to the situation, and is expected by your dog. You are communicating, your dog to you, and you to your dog - instead of merely issuing and enforcing an order and having your dog "do something for you".

When we are in this position of understanding our dogs it's only logical that we are better placed to address their problems and shape their behavior. A dog whisperer treats a dog as a dog, not as a fluffy four legged human. They respect a dog for what it is and work with mother nature and the natural instincts of the canine species. Sadly most dogs aren't afforded this same respect and level of understanding. Many well intentioned "dog lovers" smother their dogs with affection and the best of everything (toys, treats, fancy beds etc.) but this is not what dogs actually crave. A dog whisperer will provide the species specific, very real needs of the dog so they can live a fulfilling, peaceful, happy and well balanced life.

Picture this all too common scenario. You arrive home from a hard day at the office to find that your beloved dog has once again chewed up the cushions that were nicely decorating the sofa. You're angry. In a raised voice you swear at him/her and tell him how disappointed you are. You then throw your shoe at him as you bend down to pick up the mess. As you are blowing off steam your dog is avoiding you, head down low, eyes looking up almost sheepishly, with tail firmly tucked between his hind legs. At this point many dog owners look at their dog and say "look at the little bugger, he knows what he's done wrong, just look at how guilty he looks". This is the wrong conclusion to make. Your dog doesn't think like that (like a human) and he doesn't have a clue what you are rambling on about. He makes no connection between the chewed up cushions and your mood. Dogs live in the present moment, so what he is picking up on and reacting to is your angry energy, raised voice and threatening body language. He may have also learned what the consequences are when you arrive home in this type of mood - he was probably waiting for the shoe to come his way! This scenario is an example of how us humans and our dogs view the very same situation from an entirely different perspective. Dog whispering is about understanding and recognizing that these differences exist, then acting accordingly.

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Who Is The Dog Whisperer?

Many dog trainers and dog behaviorists around the world have attached the "Dog Whisperer" tag to their names. The most prominant ones are Cesar Millan who has a great TV series "Dog Whisperer" on the National Geographic Channel, Paul Owens who has a brilliant book and DVD titled "The Dog Whisperer - a compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training". Then there is John Richardson from Australia whose book "The Dog Whisperer" is also a beauty. You'll probably find someone who practices dog whispering in your area too.

How Do You Integrate Dog Whispering Techniques Into Dog Training?

When you open up the lines of communication with your dog, it can't help but impact on the entire relationship and bond you share. The advantage of utilizing dog whispering techniques in your training is that you create an environment where your dog chooses to work with you and doesn't feel intimidated or forced to perform under the threat of violence. Dog whispering in a training context is motivational, non violent and based on repetition and positive reinforcement. In many ways it replicates how dogs interact with each other, working with mother nature and with the natural instincts and drives of the dog. It's a give and take process, just like any functional, working relationship. In practical terms a dog whisperer uses observation skills, watches, listens, identifies, interprets and develops an understanding of the dogs actions, feelings and needs. He/she also uses energy, voice in a soft tone, subtle movements (body language) and scent - in a consistent, reliable manner. You can be sure that the dogs involved will be studying and picking up on all of these gestures, regardless of how subtle they may appear to be.

Can Anyone Be A Dog Whisperer?

Yes. Like anything there will be some people who are better at dog whispering than others. It certainly can be learned though. Dog Whispering is not hocus pocus or voodoo, it is there for anybody to see/do if you just take the time and effort. You can start right now by really studying your own dog, watching other dogs interact with each other at the park and if possible, monitoring a skilled dog trainer at work. If you are interested in learning more about dog whispering, dog psychology and how to apply it in your dog training I'd highly recommend "The Dog Whisperer - A compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training" by Paul Owens. If you read this book and watch the lessons in Paul's DVD of the same name you will have all the tools you need to become a dog whisperer. Another good resource for people wishing to learn how to think and act like a dog whisperer is Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

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Go from Dog Whisperer to How To Train A Dog home page.

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Up Close With Cesar Millan "The Dog Whisperer"

Learn how to use dog whispering methods with your dog - Dog Whispering Training Course

Dogs time

Dog Obedience Training - The Down Command

The down command is the next lesson to teach in your dog obedience training schedule. It should be taught as soon as you and your dog have mastered the sit command. The down command is a fundamental ingredient of your overall dog obedience training program. It provides the foundation for many other advanced commands/skills and establishes you as the leader in the relationship you share with your dog. The reason for this is that the laying down position is a submissive and somewhat vulnerable position for your dog to be in, especially when you are standing tall over the top of your dog.

The down command is a very handy tool you will come to rely on in many situations. Popping your dog down into the lying down position is great for times when you need to go into a shop or for occasions when there are small children around. It can take a bit of practice to reach this level, but it is worth the effort.

Learning The Down Obedience Command

When you are in the learning phase of teaching the down command, start out by making it simple for your dog, then slowly turn up the difficulty level.

1. Move your training sessions to a public place.

   

2. Increase the time you keep your dog in the down position.
3. Bounce a ball around your dog when he is in the lying position, or scatter some food around him. The idea is that your "down" command will be so strong in your dog's mind, that none of these other distractions matter. He can only get up to chase the ball or eat the treats when you release him from the down command.

What you are trying to achieve with the down command is to have your dog quickly get down into the laying position, belly touching the ground and his front legs extended out in front.

In a familiar environment to your dog with no distractions, lets get started!

Down Command Technique 1 - Off Leash

• Put your dog into a sitting position.
• Grab your dogs favorite tasty treat and hold it a couple of centimeters in front of his/her nose. Move your hand straight down to the ground. Your dog should follow it down (you can praise and encourage him down). As soon as his belly hits the ground, with his legs out in front, lavish him with praise and give the treat.
• Repeat this action over and over in short sharp training sessions.
• When your dog is "getting it" and going down right away, you can add the verbal part of the command. I use "down" other people use "lay" or "drop", just choose the one you are comfortable with and stick to it (make it a one word command only). Add your command just before you start to move the treat towards the ground. This step is all about building an association in your dog's mind between the verbal "down" command and the act of him laying down.
• The idea is that eventually, after plenty of repetition and praise your dog will only require your verbal command, and not the treat in your hand to lure him down. Also, in time you will be able to start the command not only from the sitting position but from standing and in any situation you and your dog are in.
• When your dog is responding well to your verbal command, introduce some other variables which make the down command a little more challenging. Try the command as you go about your daily business, around other people or dogs and increase the duration of the command.

Down Command Technique 2 - On Leash

• Put your preferred collar and leash on your dog - I just use a nice leather buckle collar when teaching the down command.
• Place your dog into the sitting position and stand or kneel right next to him.
• Basically you are trying to guide or coax your dog into the down position. How you do this depends on the size and co-operation level of your dog.
• Always say your "down" command first, then immediately guide your dog down into the lying position. Grab hold of the leash and gently pull your dogs head down, at the same time guide him down by pressing down between his shoulder blades with the palm of your hand. You can also lift up your dogs front legs and extend them out in front of him, find the method which works best for you. Praise and encourage your dog all the way down. Then of course as soon as he's in the down position make it clear to him that you are happy with him and that he has done a good job.
• After lots of repetition your dog will respond to your verbal command only. Then try the command when your dog is in the standing position and in other settings. Make the command a little more challenging by adding some distractions and increasing the time he is required to stay in the down position.

Whichever method you choose to teach your dog the down command be consistent and keep at it. If you plan to obedience train your dog at home this is the comprehensive training package I highly recommend SitStayFetch Dog Training Course.

When you are happy with your dog getting into the down position you will probably want to add a release command to it. This means that when you issue your down command, your dog goes straight down and is not permitted to get up until you issue another command. You can use "away" or "off you go" for this purpose.

This short video shows you the basic steps involved in teaching the down command using a clicker. It's worth a look.

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Some other pages you and your dog may be interested in:

What Is The Best Dog Food?

Is Dog Health Insurance Worth Your Money?

Dog time

Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash

One of the first things you need to teach your young puppy is how to behave on a leash. It is a crucial skill to master for both you and your dog's future. After training a puppy to walk on a leash they are much safer and more manageable, plus it means walkies is an experience you can both look forward to and enjoy.

The fact that you are reading this article "Training A Puppy To Walk On A Leash" probably means that you have a young puppy who needs to be leash trained. This is a great position to be in, as it is much easier to train a puppy the right way to walk on a leash, rather than trying to re-train an older dog.

If you follow the steps outlined below you should have your puppy leash trained within a couple of weeks. When my Dalmation, Harrison was a young pup we used these steps to have him leash trained in three days. If it takes you and your dog a little longer, don't panic, it will be worth it in the end.

Don't just expect your puppy to know this stuff! Your goal is to clearly communicate to your dog, what is acceptable behavior on the leash, and what is not.

How To Train Your Puppy
To Walk On A Leash

Step 1

This first step can begin as soon as your puppy arrives at his new home. All it involves is getting your young pup familiar with and comfortable wearing a collar. A simple light weight leather collar is ideal for this task. Place it on your puppy when you feed him or as you are playing, this provides a bit of a distraction from the collar. He'll probably roll around trying to dislodge it, or try his best to scratch it off. When he is doing this it is important that you don't take it off him. Wait till he has settled down and forgotten about it before you take it off.

Step 2

Once your puppy is happy wearing his new collar, it is time to introduce the leash. Same thing again here, you just want to get him comfortable with the leash, and to show him the leash is not to be feared. Any light weight, thin leash is fine for this step. You can buy your puppy a fancy leather leash after he is properly leash trained if you choose. All you need to do is clip the leash onto his collar, let him check it out and drag it around the house (always under your supervision). He'll forget about it after a while.

Step 3

Now that your puppy is comfortable in his collar and with the leash, it is time to pick up the other end of the leash. Make these first leash training sessions short, sharp and fun. At this early stage you will probably find that your puppy loves to follow you around everywhere - use this to your advantage. To start with just walk around the house with the leash in hand, and your puppy trotting along side you. When he is walking along on a loose leash give him plenty of praise, petting and even some treats. When he strains on the leash, stop immediately. Don't yank him back over to you with the leash, just call him back over to you and praise him when he comes. Never ever keep walking when your puppy is pulling on the leash, this only rewards his behavior and reinforces the habit. Your puppy has to learn that when he pulls on the leash, he gets nowhere. If he wants to continue walking, it has to be by your side on a loose leash. The same rule applies if your puppy sits down when you are walking. Don't yank him forward towards you, just call him over and reward him when he arrives. Then set off walking again with your puppy by your side.

This method of training a puppy to walk on a leash is suited to very young puppies, it requires no pulling from you or your dog. The result is a nice loose leash hanging down between you and your dog. All it takes to achieve this is to follow the above steps, then apply some patience and persistence. Please read this article for leash training older dogs. You can also teach your puppy or older dog to walk on a loose leash using a clicker - loose leash walking.

Some Useful Tips To Follow When Teaching
Your Puppy To Walk On A Loose Leash

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If you plan to train your puppy at home, please check out these two do-it-yourself dog obedience training programs. Both of these products offer the latest cutting edge training techniques you can apply yourself at home. I have used both of these products and have written a detailed review which you can access below.

Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

SitStayFetch.

Dogtime.com

Training A Dog To Stay Step by Step Techniques

After you and your dog have mastered the sit and down commands, the logical extension on them is training your dog to stay. Really when you think about it your sit and down commands aren't much value if your dog merely gets into those positions and then bounces back up straight away. That's why I like to add the stay command, although some dog trainers believe it to be an unnecessary extra command. Their theory being that when they request that their dog sits or goes into the down position, the dog should stay in that position until they are told otherwise. For those of you choose to use the stay command - read on.

Pocky "Stay"

Training a dog to stay can be difficult at first. In a way it goes against what your dog is used to (following you around) and also his/her natural instincts (being close to their pack). With this in mind keep the stay command very simple to begin with and build upon your dogs successes slowly.

Once you have trained your dog to hold a reliable stay in any situation you will find it handy on many occasions. It's a great behavior to request when visitors come to your home, if you need to duck inside a shop or if you have a dog who likes to bolt out the front door.

Right let's get started - it's a good idea to first train your dog to stay when he/she is calm and not all hyped up - after a walk is a good time. Your first training session should be in a familiar environment to your dog, free from any distractions and should only last for a few minutes.

Training A Dog To Stay - Step by Step

1. Put your dog into the position you would like him/her to stay in (use your sit, down or stand commands) and stand directly in front of him. After about 1 or 2 seconds, if your dog is still in the position you requested, give him some praise and a treat. You are rewarding the behavior you are looking for which is a stay, even if it is only 1 seconds worth to start with. As soon as you give your praise and treat, the behavior is over (this is your signal for your dog to release from his stay) so it is fine if your dog moves off. Then you begin the process again from the start, this time maybe hold your praise and treat off for 3 or 4 seconds. Just take it slowly and if your dog breaks out of the stay at any time before you have given him the release command, simply say aah-aah, don't give the treat and start the process again.

2. The next step is to add a verbal command and hand signal to step 1. It goes like this - once again stand directly in front of your dog and place him in the position you would like him to stay in. Now as soon as he is in the desired position say "stay" and at the same time hold your hand out in front of you, with your palm facing out towards your dog's nose (like a stop sign motion). Now after waiting a second or two praise and reward your dog for staying in this position (sit-stay or down-stay etc.). As was the case in step 1 you can now repeat this process over and over, gradually increasing the time between your "stay" command and your praise and treat. What you are doing is building an association in your dog's mind between your verbal "stay" command and the act of staying in the one spot.

3. You've now got the stay command sorted - in it's most basic form anyway. It's now time to add some other variables and build upon it. Many trainers label this proofing stage as the three D's - Duration, Distance and Distractions. Up until now (in steps 1 and 2) you have been working in a familiar environment free from distractions and you've just been standing right in front of your dog. Let's mix it up a little, adding one new variable at a time. Start out by issuing your "stay" command with your hand signal, now take a step backwards, pause, then step back towards your dog. If your dog has remained in his sit-stay or down-stay, praise him and give him a tasty treat. Continue to repeat this process, gradually increasing the amount of steps you take back - always remember to return back to your dog before you reward him. Keep in mind what it is you are actually rewarding him for (the stay) and if he gets up to move away he shouldn't be receiving a reward or treat. The next challenge you can add to the stay command is to move your training session to a different location, possibly somewhere with a few distractions such as other people or animals. Remember take it slowly and only add one new variable at a time. Another good idea is to practice your stays anytime throughout the day. For example make your dog "stay" when you go out to collect the mail or "stay" when you are preparing his dinner.

A game you can play with your dog to reinforce the "stay" command is hide and seek. This game is heaps of fun and all you do is place your dog in a down-stay then run off and hide. When you are ready, sing out your release command and your dog will set off to track you down.

Here's another good article which shows you how to shape a reliable stay behavior - Stay Using Clicker Training Methods

Note: When training a dog to stay do not keep your dog in a sit-stay for more than 2 or 3 minutes. If you need your dog to stay for longer periods use the down-stay.

If you're considering training your puppy or older dog yourself at home, please consider following this Complete Dog Training Package as your guide.

Short Video Showing Another Method Of Training A Stay

The Dogs training

Dog Training Come or Recall - You Need To Get This One Right

The dog training come command is probably the most important obedience command you will ever teach your puppy or older dog. At some point in time you will no doubt rely on it to guide your dog away from serious danger.

Apart from being essential for safety reasons, when your dog has mastered the dog training come command he/she can be allowed greater freedom in many situations. Like when you are down at the beach or out hiking your dog can go off exploring on her own but will always be alert and ready to respond to your come command. This gives all of us dog owners piece of mind and is very reassuring.

Your ultimate goal when teaching the dog training come command (sometimes called recall) is to receive an immediate response from your dog upon hearing your command, every time, regardless of what else is happening in the area at that time.

Lets not kid ourselves though, this type of response is not always easy to achieve. The dog training come command can take a lot of work, and the truth is that it is very difficult for some dogs to get 100% right. For certain breeds and dogs that love to chase or have a strong scent drive the come command actually works against their natural instincts.

Don't let this put you off though, you can succeed using the techniques outlined below. Basically you can teach the fast come command as soon as you get your new puppy (the earlier the better) or older dog, and you'll be reinforcing it every time you are with your dog throughout his/her life.

Why Doesn't Your Dog Come When Called?

These are the most common reasons why our lovely dogs seemingly ignore us and don't come when we call out to them.

Your dog does not understand what the "come" command means, she simply doesn't know what you are requesting her to do.

Your dog may have been allowed to get away with disobeying your come command in the past and was not held accountable for her actions (or lack of action!).

Your dog may believe that following the scent trail of a squirrel or continuing to romp around with other dogs at the park is more appealing than coming back to you.

Maybe your dog has responded well to your command in the past but was inadvertently punished for her good behavior. This could mean that you called her over then immediately locked her in a crate, or called her over and plonked her straight into a soapy bath (which she hates!).

General Rules To Keep In Mind When Training Your Dog The Fast Come Command

1. Never under any circumstances punish your dog when she comes back to you. Even if your dog seems to take an eternity to respond to you and you've got smoke coming out of your ears through frustration, it's important that you don't get angry with your dog. She'll associate your anger with the last action she did - which was coming to you.
2. Your goal is to make coming to you a more attractive option to your dog than any other alternative action.
3. Never let your dog off leash in public before you have your dog responding very well to your come command. Your dog has to work her way up to this privilege - see the steps involved in the dog training come command below.
4. Your come command should be something your dog looks forward to hearing, something she has a positive association with. You do this by making it wonderful each she comes to you, make it worth her while. Certainly do not only use the command to call your dog over to snap the leash back on after an off leash run or call her away from fun.
5. Incorporate the come command training into your daily activities. Use it to call your dog over for her dinner or call her over at anytime just to give her a scratch behind the ear or a tasty treat.
6. When you are teaching your dog the come command off leash and your dog doesn't respond, don't chase after her, first try waiting for her. If you do have to go and retrieve her don't punish her when you catch up with her, just go home or start your training session again, this time on leash.
7. Never call your dog in situations you know your dog won't come to you. You don't want your dog to think that sometimes it is ok if she doesn't respond to your "come" command. It has to be every time and your dog must never get away with not respecting it.
8. As with all obedience commands start your training sessions out easy, master one step then move on and build upon it. Challenge your dog along the way, but don't move too quickly. Your dog will gain confidence all the way along this process.

Depending on what level you and your dog are up to in your obedience training, you can apply one or all of the steps outlined below. I've found that if you apply repetition, reinforcement and patience to these training techniques, you and your dog will achieve great results.

Dog Training - The Fast Come Command!

1. Young puppies love to follow you around and often bound up to you with great delight - use this to your advantage. At this early stage all you need to do is make it clear to your puppy that you are happy to see her each time she comes to you. Make it a very pleasant and rewarding experience every time.

2. The next step is to introduce the verbal "come" command so that your dog connects its use with the act of coming to you. Start inside with no distractions around, crouch down or kneel, then in a friendly and welcoming voice say "Macy come" (Macy's my little Shih Tzu puppy), you can even wave a tasty treat around to lure your dog over if necessary. When your puppy (or older dog) gets to you, immediately praise and reward her effort. Repeat this exercise many times throughout the day to reinforce the connection.

3. If you have someone else there to help, you can now introduce the "back and forth" game. Position yourself at one side of the room and your helper on the other side. Call your dog over "Macy come" (only once, but you can encourage her over), then reward when she arrives, next your helper calls her over and rewards her when she arrives. This game is a lot of fun for your dog and teaches your dog to respect the "come" command from a person other than you. You can extend this exercise into a game of hide and seek by going into a different room to your partner, call your dog and let her find you. Make it worth her while when she does track you down - mosts dogs love this game.

Short Video Clearly Showing The Recall Game

4. Now you are confident your dog understands and is responding quickly to your "come" command you can reinforce it in different environments and situations. Put your dog on a leash (just the one you take her on walks with) and head outside. Call your dog with the same "come" command and walk backwards, when she comes close to you give her a treat and a nice scratch behind the ear. Practice this at various stages throughout your normal walk, don't forget to always praise your dog's good work!

5. The next step you can take is similar to step 4 but this time clip a long line on instead. This is a lightweight piece of rope which you can buy at pet shops or from hardware and camping stores. To start with put the long line on in a familiar environment (like your yard) and then you can progress to public places (like the dog park) when you are ready. The long line just trails along behind your dog (she will forget it is there after a while), she will feel that she has complete freedom, but in reality you can catch her whenever you please. Continue to call your dog over "come" and praise her when she does, then send her on her way again. Please note that the trailing long line is not used to "reel your dog in", it's there as a precautionary measure to stop your dog bolting away from you. It's very hard for any dog to outrun you with the trailing leash clipped on, and hopefully you won't need to be chasing your dog anyway. For further information on using a long line and properly teaching obedience commands I recommend SitStayFetch.

6. Next you can challenge your dog with a fun game. Again you should introduce this game in a safe confined area free from distractions, then progress from there. You need your helper again for this exercise. Stand about 50 feet from your helper, with your dog wandering around without a leash (you can have a tab leash on if you choose). Then throw a ball so it lands near your helper. As soon as the ball leaves your hand say "Macy come!", by doing this you are giving your dog a choice to make. She can either come to you as requested (which you would reward her for) or set off after the ball. If she decides the ball is a better option, your helper leans down and picks it up before she arrives. Your helper just holds onto the ball and ignores your dog. When your dog decides it's time to go back to you, just give her a bit of a pat, but don't make a fuss. It's a good idea to mix it up a bit and throw the ball without issuing your "come" command at times, just let your dog get the ball.

If at any time while working through these steps your dog doesn't seem to be "getting it" just take it back a step and work on an easier level. If you plan to obedience train your dog at home I would suggest using this complete dog training package as your guide.

The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Training Your Dog To Sit - Proven Training Techniques

Training your dog to sit on command is a good place for you and your dog to start your obedience training. It's a nice easy command which your puppy or dog will master very quickly. This will increase your dog's confidence and provide a foundation on which to build more advanced skills and commands.

Another benefit of training your dog to sit is that it gives you a good alternate behavior to request of your dog. If your lovely dog likes to greet visitors to your home by jumping up all over them, or charges out the front door every time it opens, you can gain control of him by applying your "sit" command.

You can start with this obedience command as soon as you bring your new puppy home, or any time after that. Before you start training your dog to sit (or any other obedience command) ensure that your dog is confident and comfortable around you - lets you touch him, gives you his attention etc.

General Rules To Remember When Training Your Dog To Sit

• Keep your training sessions short, ten minutes is plenty to begin with.

  

• Any time is a good time to practice really, you don't have to structure all your lessons. Incorporate the training into your daily routine. Get your dog to sit before you feed him or make him sit before you throw his ball at the park. When applied in this manner obedience training will be fun in your dog's mind, and rewarding.
• Make it perfectly clear to your dog what you are asking of him - what you want him to do.
• Make training your dog to sit fun, don't make it feel like a chore, for you or your dog.
• Training sessions should be full of consistent repetition, praise and positive reinforcement.
• Don't expect your dog to immediately learn this, or any other obedience command and then never forget it. It's up to you to reinforce the meaning of your command through repetition and consistency throughout your dog's life.
• Gradually faze out the food rewards you may use in the learning period of a new command. Giving a food treat or reward every now and then doesn't hurt your dog though, even if he respects your commands without one.
• When training your dog to sit for the first time, make it easy for him/her to succeed. Start your training sessions in a familiar environment to your dog, free from other distractions. Master the command in this setting, then slowly make it harder for your dog. Add other variables, throw a challenge out to your dog such as taking the training session to the park or increase the duration of the sit.

Training Your Dog To Sit - My Favorite Techniques

I have three techniques I like to use when teaching my puppies or dogs to sit. I've had a 100% success rate with these techniques and I'm sure you will too. Pick out the one that best suits you and your dog, and you'll be well on your way to having a well trained dog.

Technique 1

This first training technique is great for young puppies. When you are with your pup and you see him about to sit or in the act of sitting, say "sit" in a clear and firm tone. As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor, give him praise and maybe a bit of a scratch behind the ear. In your dogs mind you are building an association between your verbal "sit" command and the act of him sitting. Most puppies make this connection very quickly. Before long you will be able to say "sit" at any time, and your puppy will understand what you are asking of him. Remember to always reward and praise your pup as soon as his behind hits the floor. Your pup will love it, he'll be thinking "all I have to do is sit down and I get attention, treats and praise!"

Technique 2 - Off Leash

For older puppies and dogs this training technique works every time. With your dog standing right in front of you, grab a small tasty treat in your hand. Guide the treat from his nose level up over his head, the treat should be a few centimeters away from your dog at all times. Your inquisitive dog will follow the treat up with his nose and at the same time his rear end will hit the ground. As soon as his behind hits the ground give him the treat and lavish him with praise. If your dog backs away or jumps up at the treat you are taking your hand too far back over his head, or holding it too far away from his nose. Repeat this step until your dog gets it, then you can introduce the verbal part of the command. Just before you begin to move your hand (the one with the treat in it) say "sit". Your dog will soon respond to your verbal "sit" command without you even moving your hand. Remember to practice/reinforce this command at any time throughout the day, in any situation.

Technique 3 - On Leash

If your dog doesn't respond to the methods outlined above, or if you prefer to use a collar and leash in your training, this technique will do the trick. Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up, directly above the collar. At the same time gently press down on your dogs back (down near his hips) and say "sit". As soon as your dog is in the sitting position, reward and praise him. Within no time you won't need to press down on your dogs back or even hold the leash up. He will understand that your "sit" command means that you require him to plant his backside on the ground. And he'll be happy to do it for you because he knows that he receives praise and attention when he does.

I hope these techniques prove successful for training your dog to sit, I'm confident they will. It's a good idea if you live with other people to teach these commands to them as well. They can then apply the exact same commands to your dog - your dog will appreciate this consistency.

If you plan on training your dog at home, and would like to do it the right way please consider using this complete dog training package. I have found it to be a very effective tool in helping me train my own dogs, and also strengthen the bond I share with them.

Another Simple Way To Teach Your Dog To Sit On Command

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Some Other Pages You May Be Interested In:

Are you feeding toxic dog food - what is the best dog food?

Are you looking after your dog properly? - Dog health care tips

The Dog-time

Dog Training For Obedience - The Key To Raising A Well Behaved Dog

Go straight down to my list of Obedience Training Commands

What Is Dog Training For Obedience Purposes?

I, like most of us dog owners believe that dog training for obedience is an essential ingredient in any healthy human-dog relationship. But what exactly is obedience training, and why is it so important for you and your dog?

Obedience training is a general term which can be achieved through the many various dog training techniques (dog whispering, clicker training, positive reinforcement, marker training, collar and leash, reward training etc.). Regardless of which training technique you choose to employ or which dog training schools you frequent, this is what proper dog training for obedience should accomplish:

1. Builds or strengthens a healthy and appropriate relationship between you and your dog.
2. Opens up a clear line of communication between you and your dog. This includes you knowing what to expect of your dog in all circumstances, and your dog understanding and respecting what is expected of him/her.
3. Dog Training for Obedience lays down a set of rules or boundaries which educates your dog to become a responsible member of society. Including how to relate to other dogs, animals and people, basic manners and how to behave in any situation.
4. Establishes the groundwork which assists in preventing the development of unacceptable problem behavior - such as jumping up, barking, chewing, digging etc.

The Benefits Of Dog Training For Obedience

Dog training for obedience is the very best thing you can do for the relationship you enjoy with your dog, this is why:

• Basic obedience training makes life simple to your dog and eliminates confusion. Your dog will know his place in the world and understand right from wrong. Dogs really appreciate this black and white view of the world.
• Fun and rewarding for both you and your dog.
• You'll have a happy, relaxed and confident dog who you can take anywhere and will be a pleasure to be around. Greater freedom can also be extended to your dog, as he'll be more trustworthy when obedience trained.
• An obedience trained puppy or dog is a much safer dog. If your dog dashes out the front door you will still have voice control over him. You will be able to call on one of your obedience training commands like "come" "down" or "sit". This is very reassuring for any dog lover.
• You gain trust and mutual respect with your dog. He understands what is expected of him and knows that you will always be fair and consistent with this.
• When your dog is trained in obedience he will be fine around friends and kids under supervision.
• Fulfills some crucial needs in your dogs life including exercise, mental stimulation, spending time with you and providing your dog with a "job".
• Dog training for obedience greatly reduces the risk of being locked in a dominance struggle with your dog. You'll be his strong and always fair leader, who he'll respect and look to for guidance.
• Obedience training is a step by step process which you build upon over time. It creates a foundation for your dog to learn additional skills and training commands. Throughout this process your dog will be gaining confidence along the way.

The Danger In Not Giving
Dog Training For Obedience

• It's an unfortunate reality that untrained dogs are the major cause for puppies and dogs ending up in animal shelters all over the world. This is good for nobody, especially the poor dogs.
• Your dog can't ever be really close with you and your family. By this I mean that your dog won't be involved in family outings, instead spending much of his time alone in the yard. This can bring on numerous behavioral problems and can be a real pest for you, and even your neighbours.
• Your dog can be unsafe around people, other animals and on the roads.
• It is a common trait for untrained dogs to challenge your leadership or authority. Obedience trained dogs will also try to test you out in this manner. But when you are proficient in obedience training you'll have the tools to deal with it.
• Constantly (but not effectively) your dog will be yelled at and pushed further away from his pack (you and your family).

General Rules For Effective
Dog Training For Obedience

You'll find proven training techniques for specific obedience commands by selecting from the list below. These are some general tips to keep in mind that hold true in any dog training for obedience situation:

• Praise and reward your dog when he does what you ask of him, give an appropriate correction when he doesn't do what he has been taught to do. The key is to find the right balance for your dog.
• Don't expect your dog to just know this stuff straight away. Repetition of the command and the action is crucial. Believe in what you are doing and stick to it.
• Always be consistent (this includes everybody who lives with your dog), make it easy for your dog. Give him a simple decision to make and make it clear to him which way is acceptable and which way is unacceptable - provide instant feedback.
• Never correct or punish your dog for not doing something he has not been properly taught to do - be realistic and fair.
• Make your training sessions short, sharp and fun - for you and your dog. This is where many dog training schools fall down.
• Take it slow, master one easy command to start with then move on and build upon it. Continue to mentally challenge and stimulate your dog throughout the training process.
• You're the best person to perform these tasks with your dog. Your dog has to live with you, you are his pack and you must be the person he looks to for leadership and who he respects.
• Test or proof the obedience commands in different situations, places and with added distractions.
• Incorporate obedience training into your daily routine - your dog could perform a "sit" before you give him his dinner, or a "down stay" when you go get the mail.
• Never try to correct your dog if you don't catch him in the act of doing wrong, timing your correction is all important.
• Find out what motivates your dog, this will be an important tool in your training sessions.
• Work with the natural drives and instincts of your dog - this is explained further within the articles below.

Dog Obedience Training Commands

1. Sit!	2. Down
3. Come / Recall	4. Leash Training
5. Stay	6. Heeling
7. Go To Your Spot!	8. Leave It!
9. The Stand Command	10. Fetch or Retrieve

If you can't get to any dog training schools and are looking to gain a greater appreciation of how your dog thinks, solve behavioral problems and teach obedience commands I recommend this Dog Obedience Training Package.
The http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop - Dog Coprophagia

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

Dog Coprophagia is one dog problem that us dog owners hate. To us it's a filthy habit that just doesn't make any sense. I mean why would our much loved pets eat dog or cat poop when we are feeding them perfectly good meals?

Dog Coprophagia (eating feces) is most common in puppies up to a year old, but can occur at any stage throughout a dog's life. For such a wide spread problem there hasn't been much research conducted into how to stop our dogs from eating dog poop. The good news though for us dog lovers is that there are many proven techniques or training methods we can call on to correct this habit.

If your puppy or older dog has taken a fancy to eating feces, read on...

Why Do Dogs Eat Dog or Cat Poop?

There are lots of theories as to why our dogs eat their poop - they can be broken down into two general groups:

1. Canine Behavioral Problem
2. Underlying Medical Problem

If you believe a medical problem could be causing your dog to eat her poop then a trip to your Vet is a must. They will perform an examination and can pinpoint the problem for you immediately.

An important thing to remember for all dog owners who have a poop eating puppy, is to ensure that all dog vaccinations and worming treatments are up to date. The reason for this is that various diseases and internal parasites can be passed from dog to dog through coprophagia.

Common Causes Of Dog Coprophagia

• It simply tastes good to your dog (disgusting I know!).
• Could be a symptom of anxiety, stress or boredom.
• Puppies may have a vitamin or mineral deficiency and they eat feces to restore this balance.
• If a puppy is punished for eliminating (pooping) inside your house he may on future occasions eat his poop to "hide the evidence". This could happen because your puppy has misinterpreted the punishment. In other words he believes that he was punished for pooping, rather than for pooping in the wrong area.
• Could be that your dog is cleaning up his living area. This of course should be the owner's job.
• Sometimes dogs develop this feces eating habit because they are copying the behavior of other dogs. There is also a theory that some dogs eat their poop because they see their owners cleaning it up, and they just decide to do it for themselves (not sure about this one).
• Bitches with a young litter of pups will often eat the puppy's droppings. This is to keep the area clean and also to help conceal the litter from any predators.
• Could be the result of over feeding. If a dog is over-fed he doesn't properly digest his food, therefore his feces still smell and taste like his dinner!
• If you only feed once a day, some dogs can become very hungry and scavenge around for any food (including poo).
• Some dogs have been known to develop Coprophagia when put on certain medications or antibiotics.
• A dog may eat the feces of a sick dog. This behavior is an attempt to conceal or protect the sick dog from predators.
• Dog owners have noted that when changing their dog's diet the dog has developed coprophagia - especially if the change was to a diet high in fat.

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

The techniques below have proven to be an effective way to stop dogs eating dog poop. You should try one method or combine a few until you break your dog's habit. Remember that unecessary punishment or getting angry with your dog does not work - for this or any other dog behavior problem.

• Feed well balanced and nutritious meals.
• Try feeding twice a day at regular times rather than only once.
• Always keep your dog's living area clean of feces and provide a few stuffed chew toys to keep them occupied.
• Be sure to adequately exercise and stimulate your dog - mentally and physically.
• Teach your dog the basic obedience command "leave it". If you have established yourself as the fair and always consistent leader in your owner-dog relationship, this command will work immediately. To learn how to properly obedience train your dogs try Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer - I have achieved great results using these methods.
• A technique I successfully used to stop my mother's Shih Tzu from eating her poop was to put a tablespoon of pineapple in her food.

  Apparently pineapple tastes terrible when eaten in poop - can't say I've tried it myself! Other people have used Pumpkin, Spinach, Pickles or Garlic for the same purpose.

• Always reward desired behavior.
• As soon as you see your dog in the act of pooping provide a distraction. Maybe run off on him or call him over to you straight away - you can then praise or reward him. This may be sufficient to break this nasty habit, but you must be consistent using this method.
• If you visit your local pet store you will find various products specifically designed for this problem. Forbid and Deter are a couple of products which have proven to help some dogs stop eating feces.
• Another method (I haven't tried this one) which you could adopt is to slice your dogs poop length wise and lace it with tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (don't laugh, apparently it works).
• In some cases fitting a muzzle to your dog may help to break a feces eating habit. This method is suitable in times when your dog is off leash, like at the beach or local dog park.
• Use the power of "negative association" through the use of a choke or prong collar. Fit your dog with the collar and every time he goes to eat poop give a short sharp tug on the leash.

  This correction will quickly teach your dog that eating poop is not a pleasant experience. This is an obedience training technique, you can learn how to properly bond and obedience train your dog with this training resource.

Whichever method you try with your dog be sure to be consistent. You must enforce your strategy every time in order to stop dogs eating dog poop. The longer you let this habit establish itself, the harder it will be to break.

One last thing - most dogs do grow out of their poop eating habit, just not fast enough for us owners!

Treating Separation Anxiety In Dogs

Separation Anxiety in Dogs

One of the greatest joys of dog ownership is the tight bond we experience and encourage with our dogs. However, if your dog becomes too reliant or dependent on you, dog separation anxiety can occur when you and your dog are apart.

Separation anxiety in dogs is an enormous problem for around 10% of all puppies and older dogs. Somewhat ironically, problems related to separation anxiety are the major cause for dogs ending up in animal shelters. I wish I could say it is easily fixed, but in many cases it is a very difficult behavioral problem to overcome (hence this is the longest article on my website!).

Look At It From Your Dog's Perspective

To your dog you are the most important thing in his/her world. Dogs are pack animals who are very sociable creatures and thrive on company for many reasons. Your dog would spend every bit of his life with you if he could. So it's only natural that when you go out, your dog experiences varying degrees of distress or anxiety. He becomes confused, doesn't know where you are going, why he can't be with you and if you will be coming back to him. When the two of you are separated all he wants is to be reunited with his pack - which is you.

Punishment is NEVER the answer
to solving Separation Anxiety in dogs!

Does Your Dog Suffer From Separation Anxiety?

There's every chance your dog is suffering from a separation anxiety disorder rather than another dog behavior problem if:

1. Your dog gets really worked up and anxious when you are preparing to leave the house. Actions such as picking up your car keys or putting on your coat can trigger the behavior.
2. Your dog engages in inappropriate behavior only when you are separated. I expand on this topic further down the page, but behavior such as urinating inside, excessive barking and destructive behavior are common symptoms of canine separation anxiety.
3. Your dog follows you everywhere you go and immediately becomes distressed if he can't be near you.
4. When you arrive home your dog is over the top with his greeting and takes a while to calm down.

Why Do Dogs Experience Separation Anxiety?

There are many theories on this one. In some cases the cause or trigger can be pinpointed to a particular event, but often there appears to be no explanation for the dog separation anxiety to commence. What I can say is that separation anxiety in dogs regularly occurs:

1. Straight after a change in routine. Such as your work hours changing or a family member leaving home. Remember dogs are creatures of habit and any changes can be very unsettling and confusing to them.
2. If you have been on vacation or unemployed for some time and have been spending heaps of time with your dog. As a result of this when you go back to work your dog becomes anxious and distressed.
3. Unfortunately dogs rescued from animal shelters contribute a highly disproportionate number of dog separation anxiety cases.
4. After your dog experiences a traumatic event while on his own. If a thunderstorm lashes your home while your dog is alone, this can trigger separation anxiety in the future - your dog will associate your absence with the traumatic event.
5. If your dog is rarely left alone and becomes overly reliant on his human family - Golden Retrievers are very susceptible to this type of separation anxiety in dogs.
6. When you move house to a new neighborhood.

How Does Separation Anxiety In Dogs Manifest?

Barking	Whining
Licking	Destructive Behavior
Chewing	Howling
Panic Attacks	Digging
Inappropriate Urinating	House Soiling
Self Mutilation	Escaping
Diarrhea	Loss Of Appetite
Excessive Salivation	Vomiting
Jumping Through Windows	Crying

What Can You Do To Help Your
Dog Overcome Separation Anxiety?

The treatment administered to your dog's separation anxiety problem depends on its cause and severity. A mild case of separation anxiety in dogs will be easily fixed by applying some of the proven methods listed below. More severe cases will take lots of time and commitment, and possibly a visit to your Vet for some medication. Commence these techniques as soon as you identify separation anxiety to be the problem.

The golden rule is that you must to educate your dog to accept the fact that sometimes you will need to be apart from each other. The earlier you start getting your dog used to this fact, the easier it will be, for both of you.

• Ensure that your dog feels safe and comfortable when you are away from him. Provide plenty of fresh water and clean, warm bedding for your dog.
• Be sure to give your dog plenty of exercise when you are around. On leash walks, a run at the park with other dogs and some obedience training will all ensure your dog is happy and stimulated. Importantly it can also mean your dog will rest while you are out, instead of tearing up the garden.
• Provide some appealing dog toys to help occupy his time. Kongs stuffed with frozen treats are a favorite with my dogs.

  "It's Your Job To Provide Your Dog With Everything Required To Ensure He Is Happy, Well Balanced & Worn Out!"

• Leave your dog a blanket or piece of clothing that has your scent on it. This may comfort a distressed dog - make sure it is something you don't mind being torn up though.
• Try feeding your dog his main meal just as you are leaving the house. You can also hide part of his meal around the yard, which will give him/her something to do while you are away.
• If you often have the radio on when at home, leave it on while you are away. This can be soothing and comforting in mild cases of Separation Anxiety in dogs.
• Some dog owners report that buying another puppy or cat can help reduce separation anxiety. I believe that this action may reduce boredom, but won't stop your dog from missing you when you are apart.
• Leave your dog in a safe and secure crate or kennel run. This has a two fold effect, it provides a comfortable "den like" area where your dog will feel comfortable, and it means your dog won't be able to act out many of the problem behaviors listed above. Be sure that your dog is completely happy in this area before you go and leave him for any length of time. I've never crated my dogs for separation anxiety treatment purposes, but many dog trainers and owners recommend this training technique. Crating your dog is not recommended for extended periods day in day out.
• Give your dog some obedience training. Teach and practice some basic obedience training commands like sit, down and stay. Be a strong leader or the "Alpha Dog" in your owner-dog relationship, your dog will respect and trust you for it. When you establish yourself as the trusted leader, your dog will respect your right to come and go as you please.
• Drop your puppy or dog off at a doggy day care center, to friends, neighbors or a family member's home.
  
• Some trainers recommend the use of No Bark collars. These are an effective tool for stopping excessive barking problems. If your dog is barking as a result of suffering from separation anxiety it is highly likely that the barking will cease, but the problem will surface through any number of other destructive behavioral problems. Not an option I would pursue for treating separation anxiety.
• I appreciate this one is difficult for many dog owners (including myself). Don't let your dog become too "clingy" and dependent on you every second you are together. Little by little teach your dog to be on his own when you are home. Put him in a crate, outside or just in the next room. Prove to him that it's not a bad thing to be separated from you, give him his favorite treat in another room and leave him there for a while. When he is quiet and calm go and give him some praise, make it clear you are happy with him. You can also practice your down stay obedience training command for this purpose.
• Pay little or no attention to your dog when preparing to leave the house. Ignore him for 10 minutes and then slip out the door with no fuss. Same thing when you arrive home, just go about your business for about 10 minutes, ignore your dog. When he is calm, you can initiate some contact with him. You don't want him to believe that his behavior (barking, whining etc.) has contributed to bringing you back home. Don't inadvertently reward his behavior by giving a big over the top greeting every time you arrive home.

The 4 Step Program I Used To Fix My Dalmation's Separation Anxiety Problem

My dalmation Harrison developed Separation Anxiety seemingly for no reason when he was about 7 years old. He would start digging and crying as soon as I left the house, even if my other family members were home. My Veterinarian suggested this training process, it achieved the desired result but took plenty of time and patience.

Aside from the 4 step program listed below, I continued to practice the general day to day duties of responsible dog ownership. By this I mean things like providing a safe and comfortable bed, plenty of exercise and obedience training.

Harry would start to get anxious (his whole body would shake) at the very first sign of me leaving the house. This typically would be putting my shoe's on or turning off the TV or heater. It became a real problem for Harry, myself and the rest of my family, this is how we eventually solved it:

Step 1: Canine Separation Anxiety Treatment

Since Harry was always by my side when I was home I had to slowly teach him that he didn't always need to be close to me. I started out by ignoring his attention seeking behavior (jumping up, barking etc.) and then did some solid practice of his down stay. Little by little we extended the time and distance we spent apart, until he was happy to be alone for up to 30 minutes. Of course, we still spent lots of fun time together.

Step 2

The next step was to get him used to being outside while I was inside. Again we started off with very small periods apart and gradually lengthened the time over a couple of weeks. If you try this Separation Anxiety in dogs treatment make sure that you don't just leave your dog outside to get all worked up and stressed. The trick is to start out leaving your dog out for a few seconds, then going out and reuniting before he shows any signs of Separation Anxiety. Give your dog a treat or dog toy to keep his mind off missing you. Only initiate contact with your dog when he is calm and quiet.

Step 3

The next step in fixing Harry's Separation Anxiety in dogs problem was to eliminate the distress caused by me getting ready to leave the house for work. What I did was write a list of all the triggers that started Harry's anxiety. I then set about desensitizing him to these triggers. I'd put my shoe's on, and not go anywhere. Put my coat on, then sit down to read the paper. Pick up my car keys and just carry them around with me, jangling along as I went about my business. After a while (about 3 weeks) Harry barely offered a sideways glance at my shenanigans.

Step 4

When Harry was completely calm in situations that would have unsettled him in the past, I left the house. At first I just stepped outside, shut the door and came back inside within 20 seconds - before he made a sound. Again this was a slow process, similar to step 2. I extended the time outside the front door and then graduated to starting the car, then driving around the block before I came back inside. You can provide a tasty treat to your dog on your way out the door, something that he can work on for a while. Harry's favorite was a frozen Kong stuffed full of peanut butter and a few liver treats, this eventually kept him occupied for hours. Remember that when you return home, don't make a huge fuss. Come inside, get changed, pour yourself a nice hot coffee, then greet your calm dog.

This process did prove effective for me and my anxious dalmation. All up the 4 steps took about 5 weeks to work through and fix Harry's separation anxiety problem. My Vet suggested that I supplement this training with some medication. I didn't go down that path, but it would have been my next step had I required it.

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Further information on treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs.

Another good article discussing the causes and effective treatment of canine separation anxiety utilizing a clicker.

Put a stop to your dog's behavior problems with positive, non violent but super effective training techniques.

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